
Far from the cities and coastlines lies a different kind of Albania — one of towering peaks, alpine meadows, waterfalls, and quiet mountain villages. In the north of the country, the national parks of Valbona and Theth form the soul of the Albanian Alps. Here, you’ll find not just stunning natural beauty, but a sense of stillness, hospitality, and tradition that feels almost untouched by time.
If you’re ready for crystal-clear air, scenic hikes, cold rivers, and unforgettable hospitality, this 48-hour adventure will stay with you forever.
Day 1 – Journey to Valbona & Discover the Valley
Morning: Getting There Is Part of the Experience

Reaching Valbona is an adventure in itself. The classic route from Shkodër involves:
- Driving or taking a shuttle to Koman Lake
- A stunning ferry ride across the lake (2.5–3 hours of fjord-like views)
- Continue by minibus through twisting mountain roads toward Valbona Valley
💡 Tip: Book your transport in advance — many hostels and guesthouses in Shkodër organize full transfer packages.
Midday: Welcome to Valbona
Once you arrive in Valbona, you’ll be surrounded by dramatic grey mountains, forested hillsides, and scattered stone homes. The valley is peaceful, quiet, and absolutely awe-inspiring.
Settle into your guesthouse — popular choices include:
- Guesthouse Kol Gjoni
- Rilindja Hotel
- Bujtina Polia
You’ll be greeted with homemade raki, hearty mountain meals, and that classic northern Albanian hospitality.
Afternoon: Short Hikes & Exploring the Valley
After a mountain-style lunch, stretch your legs with one of these easy hikes:
- Xhemes Lake – a cold, blue spring surrounded by forest
- Old Mill Trail – walkable from many guesthouses, scenic and calm
- Rrogam Hamlet – the last village before the Theth trail, ideal for sunset views
Expect to see:
- Grazing cows, wildflowers, eagles overhead
- Crystal-clear rivers and the ever-present scent of pine
Dinner is served early in the mountains. Most guesthouses provide farm-to-table meals, often cooked by the host family — expect dishes like byrek, grilled meats, garden vegetables, and fresh cheese.
Day 2 – The Famous Hike: Valbona to Theth
Morning: Hike the Valbona–Theth Trail
This iconic 17-kilometer hike is the highlight of many travelers’ time in Albania. It takes you up over a high mountain pass with jaw-dropping views and descends into the green valley of Theth. You’ll cross streams, meadows, forests, and rocky climbs.
- Distance: ~17 km
- Time: 6–8 hours (depending on pace and stops)
- Difficulty: Moderate (well-marked but steep in parts)
💡 Start early (by 7–8 AM) and bring water, snacks, and layers. You can leave luggage with your guesthouse and have it transported separately to Theth (ask in advance).
There are a couple of small cafes and huts along the way where you can rest and enjoy fresh juice or a sandwich with the best mountain view you’ve ever had.
Afternoon: Arrive in Theth

Descending into Theth feels like entering a fairy tale. The valley is wider, the grass greener, and the village scattered along a riverbed, framed by towering peaks.
Check into a guesthouse like:
- Bujtina Gjelaj
- Guesthouse Marashi
- Villa Gurra
Rest, have a hot shower, and enjoy a home-cooked meal with other hikers. Most guesthouses have garden seating and simple but cozy rooms. You’ve earned your rest.
Evening: Peaceful Night Under the Stars
Theth is quiet at night — no loud bars or city lights here. Instead, you’ll hear the river, the wind in the trees, and maybe a few cows in the distance.
Take time to reflect — you’ve just crossed a legendary trail through one of Europe’s last wild corners.
Optional Add-Ons for Day 3 (If Staying Longer)
If you can spare an extra day in Theth, these nearby hikes are worth every step:
- Theth to Grunas Waterfall – ~45 minutes each way
- Blue Eye of Theth (Syri i Kaltër) – ~3–4 hours round trip
- Theth Church & Isolation Tower – explore local history and architecture
Where to Stay
In Valbona:
- Guesthouse Kol Gjoni
- Rilindja Hotel
- Bujtina Polia
In Theth:
- Bujtina Gjelaj
- Guesthouse Marashi
- Villa Gurra
Travel Tips
- Best time to visit: June–September
- Bring cash – no ATMs in Valbona or Theth
- No cell service in many areas – download offline maps
- Guesthouses usually provide breakfast and dinner — lunches can be packed for hikes
- Weather can change quickly in the mountains — pack for sun and rain
Valbona and Theth aren’t just places — they’re a journey into the wild heart of Albania. Whether it’s the trail under your feet, the plate of fresh food after a long hike, or the warmth of a stranger offering raki in the middle of nowhere, these two valleys offer something deeper than just scenery — they offer connection.
In 48 hours, you’ll find silence, strength, and stories that you’ll carry long after you’ve returned to the modern world.