Known as the City of Stone, Gjirokastër is a place that feels carved from the mountain itself. Perched on the side of the Drino Valley in southern Albania, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a rare blend of preserved Ottoman architecture, layered history, and deep-rooted tradition. In just two days, you can step into ancient homes, explore dramatic castles, and lose yourself in the echoing silence of its stone-paved streets.
Day 1 – Castles, Cobbled Streets & Cultural Icons
Morning: Explore the Heart of the Old Town
Start your journey with a slow walk through the Old Bazaar, a triangle of narrow alleys lined with whitewashed stone houses, traditional shops, and artisan workshops. It’s quiet in the morning, and the scent of strong Albanian coffee fills the air.
Here you’ll find:
- Handwoven rugs, copper crafts, and wood carvings
- Friendly vendors who love to chat (even if you only speak a little Albanian or Italian)
- Some of the best spots to take photos — especially with the slate rooftops curving like waves along the hillside
💡 Tip: Wear good shoes. The steep, uneven cobbled paths can be tricky — but they’re part of the experience.
Midday: Visit Gjirokastër Castle – The Stone Giant
Standing guard over the city, Gjirokastër Castle is one of the largest castles in the Balkans. Walking its walls feels like stepping into a history book.
Inside the castle:
- Explore old prison cells and underground passages
- See the U.S. Air Force plane that was shot down during the Cold War (yes, it’s still there)
- Visit the Arms Museum, which displays weapons from the medieval period to World War II
- Enjoy panoramic views over the valley and the snow-tipped mountains beyond
Don’t rush — the size and silence of the fortress are part of what makes it unforgettable.
Lunch with a View
After the castle, stop at Restaurant Tradicional Odaja or Taverna Kuka, both offering views of the rooftops below and menus filled with local flavors.
Order:
- Qifqi (rice balls spiced with herbs — a Gjirokastër specialty)
- Pasha Qofte (soft meatballs in a creamy sauce)
- Local mountain tea or a glass of red wine from the region
Afternoon: Step into the Past at a Historic House
Gjirokastër is famous for its tower houses, known as kullas — fortress-like mansions that reflect Ottoman aristocratic life.
Visit one or both of these:
- Zekate House – An architectural masterpiece with arched windows, carved ceilings, and views to die for.
- Skenduli House – Owned by the same family for generations, this house tour is often guided by a descendant who shares personal stories and customs.
You’ll learn about Albanian family structure, gender roles, and daily life from centuries ago — all in their original setting.
Evening: Sunset and City Lights
As golden hour hits, walk back through the Old Bazaar while it glows under the lanterns and fading sun. Find a terrace cafe or wine bar and enjoy the relaxed, timeless atmosphere.
Dinner recommendations:
- Taverna Lani – cozy, local, and known for its slow-cooked meats
- Kujtimi Restaurant – family-run, casual, and full of heart
Day 2 – Myths, Museums & Mountain Views
Morning: Albanian Folklore & Literature
If you’re interested in culture, Gjirokastër delivers in spades. The city is the birthplace of Ismail Kadare, Albania’s most famous writer. Visit the Kadare House, a small museum dedicated to his work and upbringing — especially meaningful if you’ve read Chronicle in Stone.
Then, stop by:
- Ethnographic Museum – Housed in the former home of communist dictator Enver Hoxha (though heavily rebuilt), it gives an excellent overview of traditional Gjirokastër life
- Museum of Gjirokastër – Learn more about local legends, the communist period, and archaeological finds
Optional Afternoon Excursions
If you have time and a car, consider a short trip:
- Lazarat – A quiet village with a controversial past and beautiful views
- Libohovë – A charming hillside village with a mini castle and a scenic drive
- Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) – If you’re headed toward Saranda, this incredible natural spring is a must-stop
Final Evening: Relax the Gjirokastër Way
Spend your final night simply: a slow dinner, a quiet walk, and perhaps a chat with a local or traveler. This city invites stillness. It’s not about doing more — it’s about letting the surroundings tell their story.
Where to Stay in Gjirokastër
- Stone City Hostel – Budget-friendly, cozy, and great for solo travelers
- Hotel Kalemi 2 – Beautifully restored, with stone walls and wooden balconies
- The Old Bazaar 1790 Hotel – Right in the heart of the historic district
- Guesthouse Mele – Family-run with warm hospitality and local breakfast
💡 Travel Tips
- Gjirokastër is walkable, but very steep — plan for a bit of a leg workout.
- Bring cash — while some places take cards, many smaller businesses don’t.
- English is spoken in tourist spots, but a few words of Albanian are appreciated.
- Local buses run from Saranda, Berat, and Tirana, but renting a car gives you more freedom to explore the surroundings.
Gjirokastër isn’t just a destination — it’s a storybook made of stone. It whispers tales of poets, revolutionaries, and everyday families who lived their lives on this dramatic hillside. In just 48 hours, you’ll leave with a head full of history and a heart full of quiet wonder.